Every season, Agnès invites one young designer to present their works during the agnès b . défilé, in which their designs usually bear the designer’s name on a special label. In Winter 2018, the young designer and illustrator Laure-Hélène Vaudier had been invited as this guest stylist.
Working actively in the art field, she gathers ideas from a range of artistic media, such as poems and novels, while she is also good at capturing thoughts in daily life. In the « l’heure du café. » series presented in the show, she focused on using pale, subtle and soft color tone to present a soothing feeling. The cuttings are tailored to make the clothing comfortable to wear on different occasions. Inspired by the cafes, she named each item after coffee names, leaving the impression of the relaxing tea time, while smelling the scent of coffees, the mood becomes more tranquillized.
À une Passante, Baudelaire’s poem… a dress floating in the wind while walking … L’amant, Marguerite Duras’s book… the girl with man hat and ball shoes… and l’heure du café. »
An important story for Laure-Hélène, who named each design after coffee… the Mocha coat, the Café crème dress, the Irish dress… With a certain nostalgia from the time people actually dressed up, she wanted “dressy silhouettes” that are far from the stiff tea time! If these women carry attractive soft colors and seem harmless – just like the poppy flower, a recurring motive which Laure-Hélène uses as a regular pattern – they keep their cards hidden. As the delicate poppy flower gives us opium, these women keep their cards close to their chests, they are hardworking and independent.
Café crème is a type of white coffee that can be commonly found in France. During the steaming process of the milk, a layer of milk foam is produced and thus gives the coffee a fluffy and velvety mouthfeel. This dress recreates this texture by its soft and gentle fabric used, at the same time being able t o maintain a strong and clear silhouette, imitating the coffee’s strong and unique taste. With the raglan sleeves designs and the bronze press studs, the dress is full of variation.
Mexican coffee is made by blending coffee with vanilla ice-cream and liqueur. With the sweetness and bitterness, heat and coldness contrasting, the taste of this coffee is rich with clear layers. Inspired by this coffee, this pullover is made with merino wool with beig e interlock, and the sleeves looks loose and light that adds dimensions to the shirt. With the details on the collar and cuffs, this design is full of fr eshness and variations. The long skirt is made with soft fabrics, creating a floating image that makes people relax and can sooth out stresses. This echoes with the theme of this collection, which is to allow people to wear it comfortably and feel relaxed.
Galão is made by espresso and milk foam, and is usually served with a high glass. Despit e having common compositions, its flavor is often unique to every other types of coffee, and this is the e xact feature of this shirt. Although it is made of cotton, which is a common fabric, it shows its exclusive features: darted high-neck, large sleeves, folded buttoned finish… every details speaks for how distinctive this shirt is.
Kaffa locates in Ethiopian, which is renowned for its coffee beans production. The fact that the name of“ coffee” actually evolved from the name of“ Kaffa”, it surely has a significant position. This jacket is designed to have a green tone. It is a mini-bomber with shirt c ollar adorned with bronzed
press studs and pockets, creating a modish and cool image to the whole look.
Java is the name of a kind of coffee beans produced in Java Island, Indonesia. It has a beautiful silhouette and adjusted shapes and straight legs. It is made by woolen thin cloth with delicate little herringbone pattern which adds to its characteristics. Its design resembles the refined flavor of coffees made from different coffee beans, impressing everyone who is having it .
Mocha is a popular kind of coffee with chocolate sauce added in espresso and milk. This coat presents the image of“ chocolate” by using a deep brown color. The other feature of Mocha coffee is that, the sweetness of the chocolate would gradually and subtly present in the dominant coffee taste. The outer layer of the coat shall represent the coffee’s bitterness with its plain image. The inner layer of the c oat is lined with printed fabric
with branches of coffees print, adding variation and dynamic to the coat, resembling the sweetness brought by the chocolate.